Buttonhole-sewing machine



Sept. 30, 1930. E. BALLEN I BUTTOHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May s1, 1929@sheets-sheet 1 Edward f/[n say zal@

SPf-l30. 1930. E. B. ALLEN 1,777,066

l BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 31, 1929 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 vuenlozEduard LAlle'n/ Sept. 36, l193C). EB, ALLEN 1,777,066

BUTTONHOLE SERVING MACHINE Filed May 3l, 1929 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Sept. 30,1930.

E. B. ALLEN 1,777,066

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 3l, 1929 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Sept.

E. B. ALLEN' BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 31, 1929 W I v dbtofcmql i i Patented Sept. 30, 193()Y UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.,

EDWARD B. ALLEN, 0F NEwToWN, connnomicnr, Assienon *ro 'rue'- smenn.MANU'- iiACTnnirTer COMPANY,Y or ELIZABETH, nfrfweERsnY, AooRE'onA'rIoNfor` NEW JEasEYV, I

Application and May-'31,

This; invention relates to sewing machines of the buttonhole cutting"and stitchingtype and has for an object to improve the construction andtiming of the work-clamp lifting mechanism oimy'copending application,Ser'. No. 258,772,filed Mar. 3 1928,'soV that it will function not onlyto relatively separate the under surface of the work and thethread forthe action oi' the thread-cutter, but also to relatively separate l thework-clamp and needlethroat member vertically to remove theneedle-throat member from the stitching Y aperture in. thev lowerwork-clamp plates preparatory tothe button-hole-cutting operation; suchprovision avoidingthe necessity oil-cut ting a needle-throat clearanceslot" in the clamp-plates leading ltromthe stitching aper-v ture, andpermitting theworkto be clamped entirely around the stitching aperture,as disclosed in the Allen Patent No. 1,860,704, ofNov. 30,1920. l il jStated more generally, the invention has for an object to. provide anorganized buttonhole cutting 'and vsewing machine having thread-cuttingmechanism below the work, with means accomplishing `the double. resultof insuring the proper action of the threadcutting mechanism andpermitting the, work to be clamped entirely around the stitchingaperture in the work-clamp.

To the attainment of the ends in View, there is provided means forrelatively separating the needle-throat member and workfclamp verticallyat the completionofthe sewing operation and holding them. so separatedfor A the action of both the bnttonholecuttingand thread-cuttingmechanisms.. This `is preferably accomplished by providing a canrrun.ning with the usual'feed-cam and operating through suitable connectionstoliit. the workclamp prio-r to the rapid ieedof` the workclamp fromstitching tov buttonho1e-cutting position.; such cam and connectionsholding the work-clamp -lifted in buttcnholecutting position `for theaction of the buttonhole-cut.- ting and thread-cutting mechanisms, anduntil the work-lamp is shifted forwardly into stitching position during;the succeeding but tonholefproducing cycle. i

Referring 'to the accompanying drawings,

1929. serial Noufseaslz.

Fig.. lv is aside elevation of abuttonholc cutthrough the standard iofthe machine, showingthe bed in plan. 7 Fig. Sis a bottomplan view of.the machine.. Figl is affront end ele vation.Y Figfr is aside-elevationofthe worlifonthe linee-6, lF ig. V5. 7 isa section on the line 7;.7,Figg, and Figs. 8, Y9,1() and' llare perspective Views of elements ofthework.- clamp lifting mechanism.v Y f The term .buttonhole asusedherein and as generally understoodinthis art, applies broadly to theproduct offa machine oi' the huttonhole. making type. and, ci course, includes.lcircularly stitched holes Vor eyelets. Themachine herein shownand described, and in which the invention isembodiedin itspreferredform, is adapted to. c ut and stitch circular eyelets, l.thestitch vbeing. preferably formed'from onev needlesthread and twolooper-threads concatenated in accordance with theV disclosure of theAllen Patent No. 1,537,- 022,0f May 51925.`

The machine illustrated i closed in thepatent to Allen, Noflel.,reissued 'April4,l9 22`, andcomprises the bed l., standard 2 andoverhanging,.bracket-arm Biterminating in the'head 4. Thestitch-forining `mecha'nism is constructed .substantially in accordancewith' the disclosure of the Allen a ai. Patent' No: lerare- Of Marea,1921,.

s of the ty-pedisclamplijliting mechanism, Gi'sasection and` comprisesthe reciprocating and laterally jogging needle 5 and the usualunderthrea`d mechanism mounted-.on the vrotary turret 6 and includingtwo threaded loopers 7 ,8 andV cooperating logopf-detainers), l0; thethreaded looperSfibeing vsubstitutedA Vior the non-- threaded looper ofthefAllenet al. Patent No. 1,372,473, in accordance with thev disclosureoi* tl'iellenflDatentNo. 1,560,635, otNov.l

10; 1925; :The turret 6 alsocarries the. usual needle-throat memberlhyThe Vperiod of operationx'oi" the stitch-forming mechanism is;controlled by the usual stop-motion device 12 by'whichthe flow of powerfromthe continuously running belt-pulley 13 to the sew ing shaft lll is`established and interrupted. 4.

The buttonhole-cutting, mechanism is. conthe usual clutch-connectionfrom a constantlyV running belt-pulley 23.

The worleclamp, except as hereinafter noted, is of the usualconstruction disclosed in said reissued patent;v t comprises the lowerwork-supporting plates 24 and'uppeiI clamping feet 25 carried by tneclamp-arms 26 fulcrumed at 27 on the blocks 28 mounted on the plates 24.The clamp-plates 24 are carried by the usual cross-slide plate 29 which,in turn, is carried by the usual longitudinal slide-frame 30. Thelongitudinal slide-frame receives its motion from the usuallink-connection 31 with the lever 32 fulcrumed at 33 on the bed 1 andhaving a followed 34 entering the longitudinal feed cam-groove 35 in thefeed-wheel 36. The cross-slide plate is actuated by the lever 37fulcrumed at 38 on the bed 1 and having a follower 39 entering the lateal feed cam-groove 40 in the camdislr 41 fixed to the cross-shaft 42which is connected to run with the feed-wheel 36 by the one-toone bevelgears 43. The feed-wheel 36 and connected cross-shaft 42 and cam-disk 41are given a step-by-step feeding movement through the usual connectionswith the sewing shaft 14, to place the stitches around the buttonhole.They are also given a rapid continuous movement, both prio-r andsubsequent to sewing, by the continuously running rapid-feed shaft 44which operates these parts at the proper times through the worm-gearingand the usual clutch-connection 46. During the rapid continuous movementofthe feed-cams, the work-clamp is shifted forwardly frombuttonhole-cutting position, Fig. 5, to sewing position, in which thesewing aperture 47 in the work-clamp is in register with theneedle-throat member 11.v When the sewing is completed the work-clamp israpidly returned to its initial or buttonhole-cutting position, duringwhich movement the under threads and a loop of the upper thread aroundone of the .loopers are drawn out from the needle-throat member andextend along the under side of the work to the last stitch.

The work-clamp is closed by a rocking movement of the connectedrock-shaft ser tions 48 one of which has fixed thereto the rearwardlyextending arm 49 which is depressed by theautomatically operated cla-mnclosing lever 50. The rock-shaft sections 48 may be manually operated toclose the workclamp by rearward motion of the usual upwardly extendinglinger-piece 51 fixed to the same rock-shaft section 48 which carriesthe rearwardly extending arm 49.

The thread-cutter is constructed substantially in accordance with thedisclosure ofthe patent to Allen No. 1,579,200, of April 6, 1926. and ofmy said copending application, Ser. No. 258,772. lt comprises a scissorsdevice having anupper pointed blade 52 fixed to and carried by' thethread-cutter lever 52:5 which is fulcrumedat 54 on the machine frame.Pivoted at 55 to the upper scissorsn@ blade 52 is the lowerscissors-blade 56 the tail of which has a follower 57 entering` thesciasors-closing cam-slot 58 in the stationary cam-piaf@` 59. Thisscissors device operates in a curved path in a vertical planeintel-sec*` ing the lead of the threads from the needle throat member 11to the stitched buttonholfwhen the latter has been shifted to buttonhole-cutting position, Figs. 2 and 5.

The thread-cutter lever 53 is operated by u link-connection 60 with .alever 61 fulcriu'mfd 'at 62 on the frame-bracket 63 and having aVfollower 64 entering the threadcutter cam4 groove 65 in the verticalgear 43, as disclosed in the patent to Allen No. 1,600,206` of Sept. 21,1926. i

In the machine disclosed in my copendinoj application, Ser. No. 258,772,means connect-- ed to be operated by the tliread -cutting mech anism areprovided for lifting by iuawardlj.Y tilting the front end of thework-clamp during the advance of the thread-cutter to op erativeposition; such lifting of the werkH clamp effecting the separation fromthe un der surface of the work of the threads to be cut and providing aspace for entry of the point of the upper scissors-blade, A ccordin tothis prior construction the work-clamp is immediately lowered to normalposition dur- 'work- .:lamp lifting mechanism is actuated by a cam onthe cross-shaft 42 running with the feed-cams. The cam is so cut as toeffect the lifting of the work-clamp at the completion of the sewingoperation and prior to the rapid-feed of the work-clamp to buttonholeAcutting position. The work-clamp is held 'Y' lifted during thethread-cutting and buttonhole-cutting operations and during therapid-feed of the work-clamp from buttonholocutting to sewing position,when it is lowered to its normal sewing level. By so lifting` theworleclamp the double function is effected of relatively moving theneedle-throat member and worleclamp vertically to permit of thehorizontal shift of the work-clamp between sewingv andbuttonhole-cutting positions without the -`necessity'of providing aneedlethroat Vclearance slot in. the lower work-clamping plates, and ofrelatively separating the sewing threads and the under `surface ofthe'worlr to provide aspace 'for `the entryv of the thread-cutter blade.The Aavoidance of the necessity of cutting a needle-throat clearanceslot in the lower workclamping plates permits the clamping-plates tosupport and clamp the work ent-irely around thesewing aperture Vandavoids dis! tortion of the work, as Vexplained in the Allen Patent No.-1,360,7 04, previously referred to.

The lower clamp-plates 24 have at theirVv rearward ends the usuallaterally slidable `connection 66 with the undercut forward edge of theretainer plate 67 as disclosed in 'said Allen reissued patent, Thisconnection isfree enough to permit of the `upward tilting of thework-clamp sections about such connection as a center.' Connected tosockets in the front ends of the work-clamp sections are theball-'shaped upper ends 68 of Vpins V69which arereceived in vthe tubes70 `fixed to the plate 71. rlhe pins 69 are groeved at 7 2 forreceptionof the circularportions 73 of the latch-lever 74 which isfulcrumed at4 75 on the plate 7l. The latch-lever. 74 is formed withrecesses 7 dwhich, when shifted into register with the pinsf69,'permitupward removalof such pinsfrom the tubes 7 0 in removing theclamp-sections from the machine. The spring 77 is adapted to bear uponthe angularl'yrelated flats 78,79 on the latch-lever 74C to retain thelatter in its two positions. Y

i The tubes''() are slida'bly received in the apertures v8O inthe block81 secured to the cross-slide plate 29. The spring 82 yieldingly retainsthe clamp-plates 24 upon Vthe cross- Y slide plate 29 andthe stop 82`limits the a laterally extending'pin carrying a roller 87 downwardmovement ofthe plate 71 under the influence of-the spring 82 when thepins 69 are released. l

Y Disposed `in underlapping lifting engagement with the plate 7l is theround nosed forward end of an arm 83 fixed to the rockshaft 84 iournaledin the bearing-bracket 85 mounted `on vthe block 8l; Fixed to the shaftY 8d is a rearwardly extending arm 86 having over which extends theforward end of a lever ,88 fulcrurned on the pin G2 and having at itsrearward end a follower 89 entering the cam-groove 90 in the cam-disk 91fixed to the cross-shaft 42 which runs with the feedcams and 40.Thelowerle'dge-92 of the forward endV ofthe-lever 88 is disposedhorizontally when the high portion 90 of the cam-,slot 90 has rocked the'lever 88 to lift the clamp-plates, as shown. in Fig. e. during therapid feed of the work-clampibetween sewing and buttonhole-cuttingpositions, the travel of the roller 87 longitudinal'- ly-of theleverv 88imparts no rocking impulse Hence,

movementto the work-clamp( i The cycle ofoperations'is as followszyStarting with the machine atfrest, as shown in Fig. l, with theworkclamp in buttonhole- 'cutting position where? it is held lifted bythe high part 90 ofthe cam-groove 90,` a workpiece is presented beneaththe raised clamp-feet 25'and the lmachine is started, whereupon the`clamp-feet 25 are-automatically closed upon the work and-the work- .tothe shaft`84fand nolifting'or lowering lclamp rapidly moved forwardlyfrom its initial lposition to stitchingposition. When the work-clamparrives institchingposltlon,

the eccentric Vpart 93 ofV the ca1n90 engages the follower roll 89 androcks the lever 88 in a direction to raise its forward end, therebylowering the work-clamp flat upon the cross-slide rplate 29; thecircular sewing ap- 'erture 47 in the lower clamp-plates 24 being thuslowered over the needle-throat member l1 which engages theunder4 surfaceof thework during the sewing. The stitchforming mechanism is thenstarted andthe work-clamp is given its usual step-by-stepfeedingmovements to place the stitches varound the buttonhole.

When thesewing operation islrcompleted and the stitch-formingmechanismgcolnes to rest, the rapid-feed mechanism Vagainfcomes theneedle-throat member to the last stitch and being separated from `vtheunder surface of the work, whereby space isprovided for the entry ofthe-upper pointed `blade `52 of the 'thread-cutter in its movement tothread- -cutting position, as explained in mysaid copending'application.V Lastly, the buttonhole-cutter vlevers l5, 16. are advanced`and closed upon the work,.as indicated in Fig. 5, and.. immediatelylopened andV retracted, whereupon the work-clamps are automaticallyopened andthe machine broughtto rest.

Having thusfset vforth the nature of .the rinvention. what I claimhereinisr LA buttcnhole vsewing machine having, in combination,stitch-forming mechanism jincludinga needle and a `needle-throatmeinber, a work-clamp ada-pt'ed'to clamp the `work entirely around thearea to 'be stitched, a buttonholefcutteig means for'relatively moving ythe stitch-'forming mechanism and work-- clamp laterally of ythe-need-le intofandvout fof i ies sewing relation, and means forrelatively moving the work-clamp and needle-throat member transverselyof the plane of the work prior and subsequent to the sewing operationand while the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp are in sewingrelation.

2. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism including a needle and a needle-throat member, a work-clampadapted to clamp the work entirely around the area to be stitched, abuttonhole cutter, means for relatively moving the stitch-formingmechanism and workclamp laterally of the needle into and out of sewingrelation, and means for relatively moving the work-clamp andneedle-throat member transversely of the plane of the work prior andsubsequent to the sewing operation and while the stitch-formingmechanism and work-clamp are in sewing relation, said last mentionedmeans retaining the workclamp and needle-throat member so relativelymoved while the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp are shifted outof sewing relation.

3. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a work-clamp, clamp-closing means, feed-cams and connectionsfor relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp firstinto sewing relation, then to sew around a buttonhole and then out ofsewing relation, and means running with said feed-cams for lifting theclosed work-clamp before the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp arerelatively moved out of sewing relation.

4. In a sewing machine, a needle, a needlethroat member, a Work-clamp,clamp-closing means, a thread-cutter, means for lifting the closedwork-clamp, means for shifting the lclosed and lifted work-clamplaterally of the needle to thread-cutting position spaced from stitchingposition, and means for operating the thread-cutter with the work-clampin its lifted position.

5. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a bed,stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder, means for relatively moving thestitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole andfor relatively moving them into and out of sewing relation, a shaftjournaled crosswise of said bed, a thread-cutter, a cam on said shaftand connections for operating said thread-cutter, and a second cam onsaid shaft and connections for relatively moving the work-holder andneedle-threat member vertically.

6. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a. work-clamp, athread-cutter mechanism mounted below the work-clamp, a cam-shaft, athread-cutter operating cam, on said shaft and an additional cam on saidshaft and connections for lifting the workclamp for the operation of thethread-cute 7. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, aneedle-throat member, a workclamp, means for relatively feeding thestitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp to sew a group of stitches andfor relatively separating the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamptransversely of the needlepath after the sewing is completed, athreadcutter mounted below the work-clamp, and means operatingindependently of the thread-cutter for relatively separating thework-clamp and needle-throat member vertically for the operation of thethread-cutter.

8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism including a reciprocating needle, a needle-throat member, abuttonhole-cutter, a work-holder having a stitching aperture to receivethe needle--tlnoat member and also having means for clamping the worksubstantially entirely around such aperture, feeding mechanism forproducing relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism andwork-holder to sew around a buttonhole and for relatively separating thestitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to permit the work-holder andbuttonhole-cutter to assume cutting relation in a position spaced fromthe stitch-forming mechanism, and means for relatively moving thework-holder and needle-throat member `vertically and for holding them sorelatively moved for the operation of the buttonholecutter.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism including a needle, a work-clamp, a threadcutter, means forshifting the work-clamp laterally of the needle from sewing position tothread-cutting position, clamp-lifting means mounted on and travellingwith the work-clamp, and means for actuating the clamp-lifting meanswhile the work-clamp is in sewing position, said means permitting thework-clamp to be shifted to threadcutting position while held lifted bysaid actuating means.

l0. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism including a needle, a work-clamp, a thread-cutter, means forshifting the work-clamp laterally of the needle from sewing position tothread-cutting position, clamp-lifting means mounted on and travellingwith the workclamp, and means for actuating the clamplifting means whilethe work-clamp is in sewing position, there being a travellingconnection between said last two mentioned means in a line parallel tothe direction of travel of the work-clamp.

ll. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a work-clamp having a travelling movement to and away fromthe stitch-forming mechanism, clamp-closing means, and means for liftingthe closed work-clamp before the lat- Y' Y 1,777,066U

n ter is moved away from thestitch-forming mechanism.

12. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in

combination, stitch-forming mechanism, aA work-clamp having a travellingmovement to and away from the stitch-,forming mechanism, and means forlifting the work-clamp before the latter is moved away from thestitcheforming mechanism and maintaining it lifted until itis `returnedto the stitchforming position.

`13. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in Y combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a work-clamp, clamp-closing means, means for imparting atravelling movement to the work-clamprto carry the latter to and awayfrom the stitch-forming mechanism, and means independent of saidfirst-mentioned means for lifting the closed work-clamp and holding itlifted in its travelling movement.

151. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a work-clamp, means for relatively moving them into and outof sewing relation and to sew around a buttonhole, a thread-cutter, ashaft making one rotation per buttonholeproducing cycle, a cam on saidshaft and connections for lifting the work-clamp, and a second cam onsaid shaft and connections for operating the thread-cutter, the firstymenti oned cam being timed to lift the work-clamp Y immediately uponcompletion of the sewing l operation.

In testimony whereof, I Vhave signed my name to this specication. Y

n EDWARD B. ALLEN.

